It is a fact that Spanish Doma Vaquera is an outstanding form of riding. To some riders it is an incomplete riding style because it lacks the development and perfection of the trot. To others it is an art form that has survived the test of time since it's primitive years as the form of riding used by mercenaries in battle. Even though some do consider Doma Vaquera as an incomplete form of riding, these same critics cannot ignore that Doma Vaquera set the foundation for the Mexican Charro, the California Vaquero and the Argentinian Gaucho, just to mention a few. Also the form of Doma Vaquera is still used in the ranges of the Iberian peninsula to work brave bulls and even in the bull rings despite the controversy that this may bring. There was a time when there two forms of riding, "a la brida" (on the bridle) the military form of riding and "a la jineta" as we said before, the mercenary riding style.

I rode one of my training horses today, and we worked on some of the advanced training of Doma Vaquera. Sliding stops which can also be found in Reining, and Canter Pirouettes, which can be found in Grand Prix Dressage.

Now some of the differences between Doma Vaquera and Reining is as follows:

Reining- Sliding Stops, the horse will drag his hind quarters and basically continue to run on it's forelegs while it slides. A beautiful movement executed correctly.

Doma Vaquera-Sliding Stops, are done more up hill, the horse will slide but come to a dead stop much sooner.

Reining-Roll Back, the horses will sit on its inside hind leg and turn almost in a half spin type manner.

Doma Vaquera-Roll Back, the horse will also sit on its inside hind leg, but also on its outside hind leg to make the roll back practically doing a levade in motion.

Reining- Flying change of leg, the horse usually is made to change leads on a very large circle or on a straight line.

Doma Vaquera-Flying change, the horse is made to change on the circle after a change of direction, in the circumference of the circle, or on a straight line. Advanced horses will also perform flying changes at every one or two strides (tempi changes), and some will do flying changes to go from a pirouette left to a pirouette right almost instantly.

Reining-Spins, the horse is started from the stand still and is made to pivot on its hind quarters at a very high speed.

Doma Vaquera-Spins, the horse does a canter pirouette on four to six strides per spin and can immediately got out of the pirouette into a canter in any direction.

Some of the differences between Dressage and Doma Vaquera are as follows:

Dressage- The horse is trained in a snaffle up until about a third or fourth level when he is put in a double bridle.

Doma Vaquera-The horse is trained in a serrata, and then i a double bridle with serrata and curb bit during its first stages of training.

Dressage-The horses performs with a  double bridle in the Grand Prix

Doma Vaquera-The horse performs in a curb bit only at the Grand Prix Doma Vaquera and the rider is allowed to use only one hand.

Dressage-Tempi changes are demanded in Grand Prix

Doma Vaquera-Tempi changes are demeaned only to the two tempis, and one tempis are optional

Dressage- Piaffe, Passage, Pirouettes, Zigzag Half Pass, and Tempis are the peak of training

Doma Vaquera-a perfect collected walk, Pirouettes, Tempis,Half Pass, Parada a raya (sliding stops) and Medias Vueltas (Roll Backs) are the peak of training.

Dressage-Elegance and perfection of the paces are demanded.

Doma Vaquera-Elegance and effectiveness are demanded.

Dressage-Developed for military purposes and exhibitions in the royal courts

Doma Vaquera-Developed for military purposes and survival

These are just some points to look at, to see the differences in the styles of riding of today. Doma Vaqurea no doubt is one of the oldest forms of riding, used by some of Hernan Cortes' men in battle and dating back to El Cid Campeador and Babieca. One of the preferred styles of riding in the Iberian Peninsula today, and one of the forms of riding of the Classical Spanish Equitation styles. Doma Vaquera can also be seen in the more recently founded Working Equitation competitions world wide.

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Take a look at this picture.. What do you see? This is the tongue of a horse. A horse being put through torture. This horse was put to work with a "Professional Horse Trainer" and in a moment of rage, the poor animal was tied down, obviously by the bit, and beaten down continuously. I normally don't like to say bad things about people or their systems of training horses, but this has really caught my attention. When I first saw this picture, I was not sure what I was looking at. I thought at first that I was looking at one of those pig bodies that are used in the popular T.V. Show  Deadliest Warrior, after being hacked by some kind of ancient weapon. But then I took a second look. I thought to my self, W...T...F...!!!  This poor horse has not only been put through a great deal of pain, but he has now suffered a great psychological trauma for life, with what happened. I wan to a quote a great master of the past, Steinbrech, by saying, "these idiots not being able to make a living in any other way, try their luck with horses."  What is this world coming to? The classical art of riding declines more and more every day with the deaths of the real riding masters, and this kind of crap is seen more and more. In my book, El Caballo de Baile, I stress the fact that if a horse owner is going to pay someone to beat the life out of the horse, then he/she should save that money and ruin the horse him/her self. Not that anyone should ruin a horse, I was being sarcastic of course. The problem is that most people don't understand the first thing about training a horse. Looking good in the saddle does not make anyone qualified to train a horse. Plus, when we don't thoroughly understand what every movement is for and how it is taught, then we are apt to try other methods, and be abusive. We are all human and we all make mistakes, but something tells me that the person who did this to this horse, has done it many times before. The sad part is that, people continue to give horses to this, so called trainer. One of the best advice I have ever heard was, "If you cannot control your temper, you will never be able to control your horse" and "only when you can control yourself, will you be able to control your horse" also, "if you get angry I will kick you off the horse, and tell you to learn to control your temper, then I will teach you how to train your horse". I have heard these quotes from different masters, Arthur Kottas, Walter Sceturgnighsak, Walter Zettl, Michael Scott, and others, I am not sure who originally said these words, but I often use these words my self as if they were my own. Sadly not all of us have the privilege to learn and be disciplined by a true master, and so we regrettably see things like this happen more often than they should. As I said, I normally don't like to say bad things or comment bad things about people, but this is not OK. This is clearly the result of a person not qualified to train a horse or to be around them all together, the truth is that this person needs desperately to see a shrink to help her with her issues, and I hope that the next time anyone decides to take a horse in training things like this don't happen. We have to look out for the horse, they are of service to us because they want to please us, but we have to learn to ask properly, or take them to some one who knows how to ask properly. My most sincere condolences to the owners of this poor horse whose spirit has been shattered and killed at least to a certain degree. To the idiot who did this, well, it is not my place to judge, but please get help. Learn more about horses, learn more about training, and if not, please find a different type of work to do because you clearly do not have what it takes for this kind of work.

Dressage Tack by: Sonia Dixon

Your Horse's Comfort and Yours Is Paramount

Everyone should start with the basic tack and clothes, making sure that they fit comfortably. Obviously a horse that is going to be ridden needs a bridle, with a suitable bit and saddle. They must be well made, fit correctly, and in very good repair. An indication of this is that they are made of good quality leather, carefully maintained by cleaning with saddle soap. Do not be tempted to use an item of tack just because other people are using it; you should only use what your horse really needs.

There are many different kinds of saddles, but for comfort, fitting and lasting capabilities, choose the highest quality workmanship and materials. The Western saddle is sturdy and down-to-earth solid, with stronger and thicker leather than its English counterpart. Like the saddle, the bridle should be made from strong, flexible leather with rigid stitching that is even and firm, with quality stainless steel buckles rather than plated metal. The bridle and bit will allow you to control your horse's head. It should be properly adjusted, so that the horse is not uncomfortable. Your horse should have his own saddle and bridle, adjusted to fit, and kept in good condition.

It is surprising how little the basics have changed over the centuries. Bits have become less harsh, and saddles are now made with sprung trees and softer padding. However, the tack used in this century is based on a simple, effective and centuries-old design that works as well now as ever before.

Protecting Your Horse

There are special items of tack that can help protect the horse from discomfort and injury. Saddle pad, boots, and bandages all have their specific uses, but do not use them to compensate for poorly fitted tack or careless riding. Items that have a purpose for comfort and safety are important. Fashion accessories are secondary. Each has a purpose but both can cause or mask damage if used incorrectly, so please do not use them just because other people do. It is right to put protective boots on the horse for show jumping and cross-country, where he is likely to knock his legs, and the boots give protection against blows. Under the saddle most riders use cotton or wool saddlecloths to keep sweat and dirt off the saddle. Saddle pads at the back give extra shock absorption under the whole saddle, while wither pads are used at the front only. Also useful if the horse's weight fluctuates and affects the fit of the saddle. Placing the saddle cloth slightly too far forward, over thewithers, smoothes the horse's hair when you slide the saddle back.

Dealing With Tack Trouble

No-one likes to think about the problems that could occur while out riding. A stirrup leather could break but you should not worry; you may be able to ride home gently and quietly without it. However, if there are breakages in any other areas of the tack, this is more of a problem. For example, a broken girth strap would mean you would have to lead the horse home, holding the saddle on the horse's back. You should in this instance, run up the stirrups and secure the firth, in order that it does not flap.

You can deal with broken reins by knotting it if the break is near the buckle; this gives you the opportunity of holding both reins. However, if the break falls in any other place, you will have to dismount your horse and then lead him. A more serious break in any part of the bridle, other than the noseband breaks, you will then lose control of your horse. If you have in your possession a piece of baler twine, that would be handy to provide a superficial mend to get you home with the horse. Warning - do not under any circumstances try to ride if your bridle is broken. Do try and ask for help by 'phone if you are too far away or near a busy road that you have to negotiate.

After your horse ride or leading your horse home do not remove your horse's saddle immediately when he is sweaty; you want to avoid your horse getting sores on his back. Your horse's back circulation is important - it may have slowed down after riding him. A few minutes is all your horse should need to come back to normal.

Whoa Camel!

Many riders strongly believe, and with reason, that the horse must be ridden forward. As a matter of fact, this is often times the main focus in their training regime. Yes, the horse must be ridden forward and yes he must have the desire to move off the leg. After all there can never be collection without power, because collection is the accumulative increase of power under control.

A lot of riders however, are paying so much attention on the development of the power, of the engine, that they forget or neglect all together to make sure that engine can also be stopped when required. For what good is a sports car, that is beautiful, powerful, and with great handling around curved roads, if there are no brakes? From the very beginning, the horse learns that he is being over powered, not by physical force but by mental games that the rider plays on him. That is why it is so important that the thinking rider be aware of the tools he has at his disposition, and that he knows how and at what moment those tools are to be used. We always hear riders speak of the half-halts. But, what are these half-halts? Nothing really, just what the name implies, a halt, or halting the horse half way. The half halt is done to prepare the horse for a change of rhythm, change of gait, change of stride, etc. In short the half-halt is done for the preparation of the horse, so that he knows what is coming next, to be better prepared. And where does these half-halts come from? You guessed it, from the whoa itself.

I believe that all horses, must learn to whoa solidly and calmly before they learn anything else. As a matter of fact, I always teach my horses to stand still and quiet, and to stop on command before I ever get on them for the first time. It is not un common to hear me say “Whoa Camel” often when I am working with horses at the farm. Yes, “whoa camel” I always say all horses are camels until they prove otherwise. I say this in a joking way, but with reason. Since all horses loose their natural balance from the moment we tack them up and teach them to move on command in different directions, and especially when they are not yet accustomed to the weight of the rider, horses tend to be for the most part heavy and clumsy, much like a camel appears to be.

On the other hand, I also see many times, and especially in America, the many riders that focus so much in the stopping force, that they neglect the carrying power of the hind quarters. An evil, equally as bad or maybe even worst, than not having brakes on the sports car. For what good is a great sports car, with good brakes if there is no engine, or if the transmission is busted?

We must find a common ground when teaching the whoa. And the way we do this, is keeping in mind that the horse will not understand over night. We must take baby steps from the very beginning, to ensure that each step forward is a step on solid ground.

The whoa takes very little effort, but only if the rider or trainer takes his time to do right. And to do it right we must know, how and at what moment we must begin teaching the whoa, also we must know what a good whoa is. Many think that a good whoa is obvious, and it is, since the horse will stop on command. Are there any technical things to look at though? That is the question we must ask ourselves. For a back yard rider, or for someone who does not care about being technically correct, but only wants to ride on the trails, this is also important since the horse will be more enjoyable the better trained he is. For the professional rider and trainer it is even more important.

Now, for the horse to be technically correct when he halts, must come to a complete stop with collection and square. With collection and square because, only in this way we can ask him from a halt to rein back, canter, trot, walk, side pass etc. We collect thru the half-halts and we stop the horse by the use of our seat and legs, asking for more impulsion and keeping a steady hand without pulling on the reins. In other words we prepare the horse, we ask for more impulsion forward, and we close the door so he can no longer get away, and the only thing for the horse to do is to stop, collected and square on all four legs.

Since I mentioned earlier that the half-halt comes from the complete halt, or from teaching the horse to whoa, you are probably thinking that I am contradicting my self. It’s like saying or asking, what came first? The chicken or the egg? Yes and no. To do a technically correct full halt, collected and square is to actually do an advanced movement. The horse when he does this, he is not putting his nose on the ground and sliding for a long time. A practice and common fault we often see in western reining. I say this because, if the horse throws his hind legs too far forward, past his center of gravity, he will have no other option but to put his weight on the forehand, and yes it looks very spectacular but is technically incorrect in classical terms. When a horse comes to a complete halt from a fast run, there will be some sliding, but it must be more of a skid than a slide. Because we want the horse to move off as soon as possible from the halt if we need him to, in the other case the horse must regain his balance before he moves off.

Now, the square halt comes from the half-halts which come from the whoa. The whoa is one thing, and the full halt is a completely different thing. From the same family but different. The whoa is done, to teach the horse to stand still, to be patient, to ignore his surroundings and focus on his trainer. The whoa is done to teach and train the horse, and for the purpose of teaching the invisible aids that will come later, with the half-halt. The whoa is given with voice command when needed, and is used as a temporary tool, that will later on be dispensed with. The full halt, is the test of the rider’s ability, to use the aids correctly and to test his timing. The full halt is an advanced movement that tests the horse’s mental well being and abilities to follow the riders most slight indications of seat and legs. The halt in this way is when the horse has understood, that he is a horse, not a camel, and “whoa camel” is no longer needed or desired. When the horse reaches this point, he no longer spooks at anything even if you literally shoot a cannon off his back. The horse is trained to a high degree. And it all starts with the basics. It all starts with “WHOA CAMEL.”

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Horse Feeding - Cool Fuel For Calm Energy -by: Stance Global

When it comes to feeding horses, most owners are reasonably confident that what they are feeding their horse is right. After all, it’s physically obvious if your feeding program is correct or not. Not feeding to provide enough energy for your horse will result in weight loss. This will be accompanied by poor hoof and coat condition and you may find your horse is dull and lethargic.

On the other hand, a horse diet that includes “hot” feeds such as oats, barley and corn can result in “heated” and “fizzy” behavior which can be detrimental to your horse’s temperament. Another real issue when feeding grains such as these is that obesity is a risk factor which can lead to equine diabetes, as well as other metabolic disorders like colic, laminitis and tying up.

Horses Need Energy Throughout The Day

So, having a horse “under-done” or “over- fed” can be detrimental to its health and affect its temperament. What can you feed your horse without risking its health or changing its temperament?

CoolStance Copra = Shiny Coat, Strong Hooves + Cool Fuel Energy

CoolStance Copra is a low NSC horse feed. Put simply, NSC is the equivalent to a low GI diet for humans. Non Structured Carbohydrates are important in a horses diet. A feed with a high NSC count will result in the horse’s metabolism being overwhelmed with insulin/energy and will cause adverse effects in trying to digest this large amount of energy.

A diet with a low NSC count is as beneficial to horses as a low GI diet is beneficial to humans. This type of feed will deliver even energy/insulin to the horse over an extended period of time. This means there are no rapid energy/insulin spikes and alternatively there are no major energy/insulin slumps either.

High NSC (High GI) Feeds Increase the Risk of Laminitis, Tying Up, Colic As Well As Equine Diabetes

Unwanted behavior is often a by-product of many energy and weight gaining high NSC horse feeds. CoolStance Copra is a “cool fuel” feeding option that provides a low NSC (low GI) alternative to your horse. Unlike other high NSC (high GI) feeds such as grains, CoolStance Copra will not affect your horse’s temperament. CoolStance Copra can be fed with medium quality hay to achieve optimum condition as well as provide energy without risk of behavioural problems often resulting from high grain feeding for the same results.

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To Clip or Not to Clip your Horse -by Ron Petracek

There's a chill in the air and winter is imminent. And just like peanut butter goes with jelly, winter goes hand-in-hand with the age-old question: should I clip my horse, or blanket him?

This is a tough questions, and there is no hard-and-fast rule. The right answer to the question is very individual.

So let's start with the easiest population first. If you are planning on laying your horse off during the winter—in other words, if winter spells vacation and the most arduous thing your horse does during the winter is eat and sleep and maybe walk a few steps from here to there—the answer is simple. Let your horse's coat grow. Without interference, the thick, heavy coat most horses grow naturally should keep him nice and warm during the winter months, providing he is just spending time in the barn and pasture.

If you choose to let your horse's coat grow, whether or not he requires extra blankets will depend upon your horse. Heartier, warm-blooded breeds like the Morgan might only need blanketing in the most inclement of weather, while cold-blooded, thin-skinned breeds like the Thoroughbred will almost certainly need extra blankets.

Now, if your horse works during the winter, you'll have to think more carefully about whether you clip him or blanket him. Why? Well, no matter how cold the weather the horse's thick winter coat will cause him to sweat during work. What is the result? A wet coat. Think about yourself for a second, and how you feel after a few hours of arduous play in the snow. You come inside all sweaty and wet, right? And doesn't it feel great to take all those wet clothes off? Well, the horse has no such option. He's stuck with his coat! And a horse who stands around in a wet coat is risking illness.

So what to do? If your horse is working during the winter months, it is smart to clip him. But, you say, there are so many clips! Which one to choose? Well, that depends upon how much your horse sweats and the amount of work he's been given. A good way to go is to start with the most basic clip and go from there.

To simplify, the five clips, in order from most basic to most complicated, are: the pony clip, the trace clip, the blanket clip, the hunter clip, and the full clip.

In the pony clip hair is removed from the neck and chest, the areas that the horse sweats the most. In the trace clip, hair is removed from the underside of the neck and stomach. A "high" trace clip goes well up the horse's flanks, while a "low" trace clip ends lower on the horse's flanks. A blanket clip removes all the hair on the neck and flanks, but leaves a blanket-shaped area over the back and hindquarters. The legs remained unclipped as well. A hunter clip, usually reserved for horses in hard training, leaves hair only on the legs and saddle area. The most extreme clip, most often seen on show horses, is the full clip. This clip removes all hair from the horse's body.

If you choose to clip your horse, you will have to blanket your horse to make up for the loss of winter coat. But there are so many blankets on the market today. Which one is right for your horse? Easy! Any blanket that keeps your horse warm and dry, actually stays on, and isn't routinely shredded is the right blanket for your horse. Finding the right blanket is often done by trial and error; talk to others about what has worked on similar horses in similar climates, and go from there.

Stay warm!

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